Nach 3 Jahren harter Arbeit hat Mauro Calibani, ehem. Weltmeister und Gründer und Schlüsselfigur von E9, sein Projekt VOORTREKKER in Frosolone vom Projektstatus befreit!
Das Projekt ist für Mauro nicht irgendeine Route, lest hier seinen persönlichen Bericht (englisch)
Words Mauro Calibani
VOORTREKKER, Mauro Calibani’s toughest sport route
Mauro Calibani has, after three years of physical and mental work, freed his very personal VOORTREKKER via Frosolone. Personal because not only freed by the former world champion and key figure of E9, but also because this result is nothing but the fruit of a very deep and intimate inner work. As Mauro tells himself.
“I’m torn, but I decide to make official the news of my free ascent, and three years after this intimate process, from having found the line, imagining it, dreamed it and then finally tried it, on Friday 5 July it happens like this …
We get up early in the morning, for a few days I have a pain in my left knee, it became inflamed in the final movements during the previous attempts. After breakfast, with Daniela we move towards the street, which as always in the morning is darker, but the air is cooler. I don’t have a good mood because of the fear of not being able to try it anymore if my knee gets worse, I warm up and a little later I make a first attempt controlling its movements, to understand how it goes … I fall!
Meanwhile, when we rest, we immerse ourselves in the chirping silence of nature, observing some cute reddish mice with black eyes, that wander around us, very fast, coming out from all sides in the underlying stony ground. One of them is called “Crissi” and his partner “Agata Crissi”, they slip into open backpacks in search of food, we have fun watching them, while time passes and the muscles are new again.
Dani suddenly, for the first time, tells me to go for a ride; she realized that I am inhibited by the thought for the knee. Lying down, I get up from the hammock, quiet with no thoughts, we both go to the fighting posts. I tie myself up, shake my Dragon shoes at my feet and wipe my toes with wet palms, put my hands in my magnesite bag and knead my fingertips very well, while my breathing becomes slow and deep. Free the mind, I lean against the wall and I leave.
Everything starts to flow smoothly, my rhythm is good, the conditions are a little less: it is a bit warm, the air is still, but the movements follow one another precise and powerful. I’m back at the hole.
I put my head out of my thoughts, as if I had to face a new path from scratch, as if I hadn’t made the first part, four shakes to loosen my forearms and a determined allotment. For the first time the rhythm in the four successive movements is quick and light, I find myself as never before to face the final sequence that I succeed with maximum attention and precision.
Now I have the big grip in my hands!
Exhausted and confused, I roll over in silence with breath and heart in pain. I close my eyes and immediately try to feel the emotions, I am sure they will come out in a moment, spend a few seconds until I explode in a dozen screams coming out of my belly, cries of joy and liberation, then the emotion for to have understood that this long journey dreamed of with all of myself has finally become reality.
For the first time I fully understand the true meaning of “a tougher sports route”, the most difficult that I have ever had the privilege of meeting and going up first, where inner strength, patience and dedication have me accompanied in this uncertain and beautiful journey.
45 years, the passion for the vertical and 15 days to make 37 attempts splits fingers, deliberately alone, without any other parameter, to try once again to understand who they are, and what they are made of. I am happy now, although I am usually only strict with myself. Even this memory will always be precious and present for the rest of my life, dedicated to research, in which “the beauty of the line in the rock” has guided my continuous evolution.
I decide to call my line “Voortrekker”. He was a magnificent old specimen of African Elephant considered a hero for having moved and adapted perfectly to the desert environment of the Kunene. Other members of his family joined him and repopulated the area with elephants that had previously become extinct due to poaching. Not many days ago Voortrekker was killed and I decided to dedicate my climb to him.
In the African language Voortrekker singles “those who go on” or “pioneer”. Like all wise old elephants, he taught the new arrivals through the example, the strategies to live in that arid territory ».